Quick answer: A water butt pump sits in or on your water butt and pushes the stored rainwater through a hose, so you get proper pressure instead of a slow gravity trickle. For most gardens, a submersible rain barrel pump with a float switch is the best choice. Check the delivery head (how high it can push water) is well above what you need, and use a cordless pump if you don’t have an outdoor socket.
A water butt tap relies on gravity, which means a slow trickle and plenty of trips with a watering can. Add a pump and you can run a hose, a sprinkler or even a drip system straight from your butt, using free rainwater.
This guide explains how water butt pumps work, the different types, what the specs actually mean and how to choose and set one up.
Why use a water butt pump?
- Proper pressure. A tap on a water butt only has gravity behind it. A pump gives you real flow through a hose.
- Reach the whole garden. Water the far beds or the greenhouse without carrying cans back and forth.
- Use all the water in big tanks. If you’ve got a large water butt, several linked butts or an IBC tank, a pump is the practical way to use it.
- Keep watering in a hosepipe ban. Hosepipe bans restrict mains water. Using a hose with your own stored rainwater isn’t mains water.
Types of water butt pump
Submersible pumps
These sit at the bottom of the butt, fully underwater, with a hose running up and out over the top. They’re quiet, compact and the most popular choice for water butts. Many general-purpose clean water pumps work well in a butt.
Rain barrel pumps
These are submersible pumps designed specifically for water butts and rain barrels. They often hang from the rim on a bracket with an on/off switch at the top, and many include a filter and an adjustable float switch. Gardena and Einhell both make pumps of this type.
Cordless pumps
Battery-powered pumps, either submersible or stick-style, are ideal where there’s no outdoor socket nearby. Many run on the same battery as a power tool range you may already own, which keeps the cost down.
Surface (garden) pumps
These sit outside the butt and suck water up through a suction hose. They can be more powerful, but they’re usually overkill for a single water butt and need priming. They’re more suited to large tanks and wells.
| Type | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Submersible | Most water butts | Quiet, simple, affordable | Needs a mains socket |
| Rain barrel pump | Water butts specifically | Hangs from rim, often filtered | Slightly pricier |
| Cordless | No outdoor socket | Portable, no cables | Battery runtime, battery cost |
| Surface pump | Big tanks, IBCs | Powerful | Overkill for one butt, needs priming |
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Gardena Rain Barrel Pump 4000/1 with Cable: Submersible Pressure Pump with Integrated Filter, Flow Rate 4000 l/h, regulating Valve for Adjusting the Water Tightness, UK Plug (1762-28)
Original price was: £79.99.£76.99Current price is: £76.99. -
VEATON 350W Submersible Water Butt Pump with External Float Switch | Garden hose watering from water butts and rain barrels, aluminium outlet pipe, click fit connector
£54.99 -
Metabo TPF 18 LTX 2200 18V Cordless Submersible and Rain Barrel Pump | 2200 l/h, 1/2″ Hose 1.5m with Quick Action Couplings, Multi-Adapter, Control Valve / Shut-off Valve, Slim Design (Ø142 mm)
£76.95 -
Draper 36327 Submersible Clean Water Butt Pump with Float Switch, 40L/min, 350W, Blue
Original price was: £45.67.£43.95Current price is: £43.95.
Browse all water butt pumps.
Water butt pump specs explained
Float switch
A float switch automatically turns the pump off when the water level gets low, so it can’t run dry. Running dry can overheat and damage a pump, so for a water butt a float switch is well worth having. Some are built in, others are external floats on a cable.
Flow rate (litres per hour)
The maximum volume the pump can move, usually given in litres per hour (l/h). A higher figure means faster watering, but that maximum is measured with no height or hose to push against. In real use you’ll get less.
Delivery head (maximum height)
The maximum height the pump can lift water, in metres. This is the number that really matters for performance. The higher you need to push the water, the longer the hose and the more fittings and sprinklers you use, the more head you need.
Tip: As a rough rule, choose a pump whose maximum delivery head is comfortably more than you need. Each metre of height, plus long hose runs and sprinklers, uses some of it up, and the closer you get to the maximum, the weaker the flow.
Power (watts)
Higher wattage usually means more flow and head, but also more electricity. For a typical water butt, a modest pump is plenty.
Particle size
Some pumps can handle small bits of debris (often a few millimetres), while others need clean water. A pump with a built-in filter, or a diverter with a filter on the downpipe, helps protect it. See how to keep water butt water clean.
Hose connection
Check the outlet size and whether it suits your garden hose fittings. Many pumps come with adaptors for common hose connectors.
How to choose the right water butt pump
- Power source: do you have an RCD-protected outdoor socket nearby? If not, go cordless.
- Distance and height: how far and how high will you pump? Pick a delivery head well above that.
- Use: hand watering with a hose needs less than running a sprinkler or a drip system.
- Float switch: essential for peace of mind.
- Size of store: for one 200 litre butt, a compact pump is plenty. For linked butts or IBCs, a more powerful pump makes sense.
How to set up a water butt pump
- Read the instructions. Every pump is different.
- Connect the hose to the pump outlet before lowering it in.
- Lower the pump into the butt. Stand it on the base (submersible) or hang it on the rim (rain barrel pumps). If there’s sludge at the bottom, raise the pump slightly on a brick so it doesn’t suck it up.
- Set the float switch so it turns off before the water gets too low.
- Plug in to an RCD-protected outdoor socket, or fit the battery.
- Turn on and water. Keep an eye on it the first time to check the float switch works.
Using a pump safely
- Only use pumps designed for garden water, and follow the maker’s instructions.
- Always use an RCD-protected outdoor socket for mains pumps.
- Keep plugs and connections dry and off the ground.
- Never let the pump run dry.
- Lift the pump out and store it somewhere frost-free over winter.
- Water butt water is for the garden only. It isn’t safe to drink.
Can I use a pump with linked water butts?
Yes. If your butts are linked at the base, the water level stays the same across all of them, so a single pump in any butt will draw from the whole set.
Water butt pump FAQs
Do I need a pump for my water butt?
Not if you’re happy filling watering cans from the tap. A pump is worth it if you want to use a hose or sprinkler, have a big store of water, or need to reach the far end of the garden.
Can I use a hosepipe with a water butt without a pump?
Yes, but the pressure will be low because it’s gravity only. It’s fine for slowly filling a can or a trickle onto a bed, but it won’t run a sprinkler. Raising the butt on a stand helps a little.
Will a water butt pump work with a sprinkler?
Many will, but sprinklers need decent pressure. Choose a pump with a good delivery head and keep the hose run short.
Can I leave a pump in my water butt all year?
It’s best to take it out over winter and store it somewhere frost-free, as ice can damage it.
What is a float switch on a water pump?
A float that rises and falls with the water level. When the water gets low, the float drops and switches the pump off so it can’t run dry.
